In Sicily

I lost my glasses and had lunch with a hawk

Segesta on a beautiful day. Photo by Evan Kleiman.

I may be in Sicily, but the tether to Southern California and KCRW is still strong. If you’ve been listening to the station this week, you know we’re in the midst of a pledge drive. I love that word “pledge" because it’s a promise. We promise to deliver varied and engaging programming, and if you are so moved, you promise to support us. Seventy percent of our support comes from individuals like you. In case you need a little nudge, this Saturday, May 16th, and Sunday, May 17th are Double the Meals days, which allow you to help our larger Southern California community in a very direct way. When you donate, instead of receiving a t-shirt or coffee cup as a thank you from us, you can support one of our local food banks instead. If you’ve been following the news, you know that food banks are serving more people than ever, so this year, supporting them is particularly urgent. We are so grateful to have the opportunity to turn your gift into meals. Donate now, and please consider becoming a monthly member.

I have interviewed José Andrés many times over the years, but the conversation that airs today may be my favorite. His genuine ebullience is matched by his compassion, and both are on display. Talking to the family behind Simply Wholesome was surprisingly emotional. The commitment to community and each other they display is so strong. That they’ve been standing since 1984 says everything. Listen, then go support them.

Almonds are the star of Sicilian pastry tradition at Maria Grammatico.’s pastry shop. Photo by Evan Kleiman.

If you wear glasses, this is your public service announcement to bring a spare pair when you travel. I’ve never lost mine before because mostly they just live on my head. But there is always a weak link moment when I switch to sunglasses, tuck the clear ones in their case, and settle them in my purse. Apparently, the dramatic beauty of the ancient entrance to Palermo, the Porta Nuova, caused me to misjudge, and poof, they were gone.

I loved that LA Eyeworks frame (which probably doesn’t exist anymore), but most of all, I mourn the petit point case, which was made by my mom during her Petit Point Junction era, the needlepoint store she had on Robertson Boulevard for twenty years. The design was of a unicorn in a garden. I was not looking forward to seeing Sicily only through dark glasses, so I went in search of an “ottica” or eyeglass store that could make a pair for me in 24 hours. I found the biggest one ever. Four opticians serving around twenty people. Now I look like a librarian. Oh well. But it was worth it to be able to see the moving, hilarious, and beautiful Opera dei Pupi, a traditional form of Sicilian puppetry.

I’m in Sicily, Western Sicily to be more precise, where I’ve been spending several days with a lovely group of people for Via Rosa. Every day is packed with activities. Today, I met the legendary pastry chef Maria Grammatico. My friend Victoria Granof asked me to bring her My Sicily, her new cookbook. The legend even made me a cappuccino! I interviewed Victoria back in 2024, but having the book with me while in Sicily has been very special. It’s filled with so much history and stories that surround the unique pastry culture here.

Quality time with Maria Grammatice of Erice, Sicily.

Some scenes from my trip in Western Sicily.

Scenes from Palermo and environs.

Digestibles

As for the hawk, she made her appearance at a country lunch (our chef that day is a falconer). It’s a reminder to read or watch H Is For Hawk. From the publisher, “This is a book about memory, nature, and nation, and how it might be possible to reconcile death with life and love.”

An exciting new bakery on Wilshire Boulevard has opened in my neighborhood (which, because of the opening of the new D Line Metro stops, may be closer to you than you imagine). It’s Kouzeh, and Bill Addison wrote an extremely informative piece on what the unique regional Iranian owner/baker Sahar Shomali is doing. I stopped by the first week she opened and was stunned by the great variety of flavors within each category of sweet and savory. This is a truly unique project. Go support it.

If you need a laugh, here’s a classic with Jimmy Fallon and Benedict Cumberbatch.

An Italian donkey and crew.